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Four Days in Buenos Aires: Buenos Aires Itinerary

  • May 2, 2016
  • By Brittany
  • 11 Comments
Four Days in Buenos Aires: Buenos Aires Itinerary

Hello and happy Monday!  If you follow me on Instragram, you saw my feed blow up recently with photos from our recent trip to Buenos Aires, Argentina.  I wasn’t sure what to expect from this famous, yet unknown to me, South American country.  We had just four days to figure it out and by the end, we had seen so much of the city.  Here’s our four day itinerary.

Day 1

Arrive in Buenos Aires and check in at the hotel.  We stayed at the Four Seasons in the Recoleta neighborhood of BA.  I highly recommend the hotel, they were so accommodating for us from getting us transportation that included a baby seat to providing us with dinner reservations, a babysitter and a special baby food menu.  Plus, the place was gorgeous.  

Four Seasons 1

Four Seasons Chandelier

four seasons hotel

Also, Recoleta is known as an upscale area and is considered safer than other areas of the city.  Remember that this is still South America and a large city so safety is always a concern.

recoleta

We arrive just in time to head to Plaza de Mayo to see the Madres de Plaza de Mayo (Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo).  Essentially, this is a group of mothers who first convened in 1977 to march on the Plaza de Mayo in order to protest the “disappearance” of their children.  

Madres de Plaza de Mayo

This was during the Dirty War when a military dictatorship ruled Argentina.  The Casa Rosada or presidential palace overlooks the plaza and this was a way of protesting the fact that their children had been taken by the military and “disappeared” without any information.  It is believed that the children were killed.

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Buenos Aires Itinerary- Plaza De Mayo

Despite the sad undertones of this group, the mothers still march today and it is seen as quite positive because these mothers protest in favor of human rights.

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Plaza de Mayo

Just a stones through away from where the mothers march every Thursday at 3:30pm, is the previously mentioned Casa Rosada, the presidential palace made famous by Eva Peron (or Evita) because she addressed her followers from the balcony there.  It is recreated in the famous musical named Evita where she sings “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina”.  The Casa Rosada is also emblematic of the city because of its baby pink color.

Casa Rosada Plaza de Mayo Buenos Aires

Walking around the plaza, we were immediately wowed by the beautiful architecture that is prevalent throughout the city.  We were stunned by how different the city looks from Sao Paulo.

Sightseeing in Buenos Aires- Avenida de Mayo

We spent some time walking up the famed Avenida de Mayo, which was very reminiscent of Paris with its abundance of street cafes.  In fact, the mayor of Buenos Aires had the street renovated in order to remind people of Paris.  

We stopped at the famous Cafe Tortoni for a quick coffee and churro.  It has been around  since 1858 and is widely recognized as one of the most beautiful cafes.  It is filled with character and charm.

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Cafe Tortoni

cafe tortoni 1

cafe tortoni 4

After our coffee, we headed back towards our hotel exploring Recoletta as we went.  There were numerous cute shops and cafes along our walk and we noticed that the buildings were upscale and built in French style.  

All tuckered out, we had room service for dinner and hit the hay!

Day 2

We started our day with breakfast at the hotel.  The restaurant, Elena, is well known in the city for its fare.  From there, we jumped in a car and headed out to the neighborhood of Palmero to visit Parque Tres de Febrero, Buenos Aires’ Central Park.  It is a huge park with a lot to offer so we started out in the Rose Garden.

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Parque de Tres de Febreo- Rose Garden View

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Parque de Tres de Febrero- Rose Garden

Even though we were visiting in autumn, the garden was filled with gorgeous roses that were obviously very well maintained.  Nestled among fountains and trellises, the roses bloomed in abundance and it was relatively quiet.

Buenos Aires Rose Garden

From there, we walked through the park heading to the Jardin Japones.  Is it just me or does every city have a Japanese garden?  Although we did have to pay an entry fee, we enjoyed browsing through the Koi pond, bridges and other structures.

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Japenese Gardens

Japenese Garden

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Jardin Japones

The park is huge and you could easily spend an entire day there visiting the planetarium, Zoo and botanical garden but it was getting late and we decided to head to Palmero Soho for lunch.  Good thing we did.

Cooper in the Japenese Gardens

We made to it Don Julio at just the right time to snag an outdoor table before the hoards of crowds showed up.  If you Google the best restaurants in Buenos Aires, you will undoubtedly hit upon Don Julio.  It is an institution in the city.  It is a Parilla, which is essentially a steak house.  So when in Rome. . . 

don julio 2

We sampled a chorizo and tomato appetizer, along with a sweet corn empanada (delish!), a pumpkin salad and, of course, a steak.  While I liked my appetizers and the Malbec was great, I was disappointed with the steak.  It was overcooked and generally a bit bland.  I didn’t end up finishing mine.  I have to say, based on the reviews and its popularity, I expected more but found that our other meals far outshone this one.

don julio 1

After lunch we headed back to the hotel to relax poolside and head to the gym.  The Four Seasons has the most gorgeous pool overlooking the Le Mansion, a building that houses their exclusive suites.

Four Seasons pool 1

With a babysitter booked for the evening (who spoke English!), we headed out for dinner at Tegui, rated on the Top 100 Restaurants in the World.  We were excited to try out the tasting menu, even with a late dinner reservation of 9pm (we have a one year old people!).  We were greeted with a complimentary glass of champagne (I think that is quite common in Buenos Aires so cheers!), and then settled in for the tasting menu. 

One negative thing was that they didn’t allow photos.  Whomp whomp.  But we did enjoy our meal and the server was fluent in English, which was very different from our experience at D.O.M. and Mani in Sao Paulo, where the waiters didn’t really speak English.  On the overall the experience was fun and I liked a lot of the food, although there were some things I didn’t care for like an extremely fishy fish dish.  But one of my favorites was a delicious tomato dish with strawberries!

Day 3

The day started off with an early wakeup call from our little one (didn’t he realize we were out until after midnight at dinner!?), so we headed out locally for breakfast at a little cafe nearby.

cafe breakfast

After a simple breakfast, we decided to spend the day walking around and exploring more of the city.  Our first stop was Recoleta Cemetery where we were in awe of the amazing tombs erected for family members.  This is so different from the United States where we have headstones.  The tombs were elaborate and the coffins were laid inside the tombs rather than buried.  

Recoleta Cemetery 1

Recoleta Cemetery 2

Recoleta Cemetery 3

We visited Evita’s, which is very famous although it isn’t necessarily the fanciest one in the entire place!  In case you didn’t know, she died at only 33 from cancer.

Four Days in Beunos Aires- Evita's Tomb

After visiting the cemetery, we walked around the neighborhood a bit, taking in the sites and then headed to a local eatery to sample some more empanadas.  They were delicious! 

We ended up walking around the whole day, checking out the beautiful buildings, including the Congress building, which is incredibly ornate.

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Congresso

In some areas the city reminded me a lot of Europe, while others reminded me of New York, especially Times Square.

Sightseeing in Buenos Aires 1

Sightseeing in Buenos Aires 2

Sightseeing in Buenos Aires 3

Sightseeing Buenos Aires

Sightseeing in Buenos Aires 5

Of course, we couldn’t resist a photo in front of the famous Obelisco de Buenos Aires.  

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Oblesico de Buenos Aires

We ended up walking the entire day and were so glad for an afternoon coffee at a cute cafe in Recoleta before crashing at the hotel.  I hit the gym as we still had a few hours to kill before dinner.

Our dinner reservations took us to Sucre.  This was easily the best meal I had in Buenos Aires.  It was amazing.  I started with a burrata with figs, basil and honey while the hubs had a salad with pomegranate, kale and squash.  I then had the most delicious pork dish with a chutney while the hubs went for a steak.  The entire meal was amazing and I highly recommend this restaurant.

sucre dinner 3

sucre dinner 2

sucre dinner 1

sucre dinner 4

Day 4

After breakfast at the hotel again, we headed out to San Telmo for the Sunday market.  There were hundreds of artisans selling their wares and if you need souvenirs, this is a great place to pick them up.  

Four Days in Buenos Aires- San Telmo Market

San Telmo Market 1

San Telmo Sights

San Telmo Market

San Telmo

My favorite part of the entire experience were the tango dancers.  I was hanging out to see them the entire trip and they didn’t disappoint!

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Tango Dancers

Another thing that you must try in Buenos Aires is the ice cream.  Multiple people told me that the ice cream was amazing and I can attest that it is very good!

ice cream in buenos aires

After the markets, we decided to walk to La Boca, the next neighborhood.  I DO NOT recommend this!  This was definitely an unsafe neighborhood and we didn’t feel all that comfortable walking around.  But, we ended up at Caminito to view the colorful buildings that are so well known in Buenos Aires.

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Caminito

Four Days in Buenos Aires- Viewing Caminito

Caminito 3

While it was amazing to see the buildings, the area is so touristy and the entire place felt like it needed to be cleaned.  I definitely didn’t feel like we needed to spend more than an hour there.  Luckily that left just enough time to head to the airport at the end of our Four Days in Buenos Aires!

Readers, have you been to BA–what did you think?  Any tips for packing in an entire city in four days?

 

By Brittany, May 2, 2016
  • 11
11 Comments
  • Acacia
    May 2, 2016

    Looks like you had an amazing trip. I must steal your itinerary!

  • Sarah @ Sweet Miles
    May 2, 2016

    What an amazing trip!! And to take your son too, how was traveling with a little one? Looks like you guys had a blast! It’s always so fun seeing all of the different architecture in other countries…sometimes I wish the states were a little more interesting! Ha!

  • Holly
    May 3, 2016

    WOW, Brittany! What a post! The BA Chamber of Commerce should give you an award for your review as it makes me want to hop on a flight and get to BA!. I have never been to Buenos Aires in person yet I feel like I just visited: the architecture, cafes, garden, parks, boutique flower shop, the restaurants for marvelous dinners, the sights of daily living, the background of the struggles, culture and creativity in the city.

  • Nellie
    May 4, 2016

    SO awesome!! Love all your pictures!! The food looks so good!! and even though Cooper woke you up early (typical!) looks like he had a great time too!

  • Nicole @ Foodie Loves Fitness
    May 4, 2016

    It sounds like you saw and did a ton in those 4 days! Buenos Aires looks like a neat city to visit, and some of your eats sound awesome. Burrata with figs, ice cream & empanadas?! You’re making my hungry! I find the story behind the mothers marching so sad (obviously) and interesting.. I can’t believe that they march every week. Wow! All in all, I think you packed in a lot of sightseeing during your trip!

    • FitBritt
      May 4, 2016

      Yeah it was really crazy to hear their story. What I found interesting was that I had a harder time finding out why the children were taken and what really happened to them. That is kind of glossed over. The burrata was truly amazing!

  • Sara
    May 5, 2016

    Hey Britt! Glad you enjoyed BA! I’m up in northern Argentina, but make it to BA a couple times a year. If you go again, I highly recommend the Recoleta Sunday market as opposed to San Telmo. San Telmo’s great the first time, but I find it so crowded that it kind of puts a damper on the whole thing. Recoleta has great artisans, and it just feels less claustrophobic.

    My husband and I ate at Tarquino the last time we were down in BA (for Semana Santa)–and they had just finished catering the meal for the US-Argentina state dinner. Highly recommended, but a little hard to find (ring the doorbell).

    Also, if you go again–take a cab out of the city to Parque Temaiken! It’s a very nice zoo (at or above US standard) that really focuses on helping the animals. We disliked the BsAs zoo, but LOVE Temaiken. We’ve been there twice so far.

    For quick food in the downtown area, we liked Filo near the Plaza de San Martin. Some of the better pizza and pasta we’ve had in Buenos Aires.

    Also–check out The Argentine Experience. It’s a dinner/cultural lesson that is a fantastic intro to Argentine/Porteno culture. You get to eat a fantastic steak (best one we’ve found in Argentina so far), make your own empanadas, and try to make some alfajores (cookies with dulce de leche). You also get to try some of the famous mate drink. I’ve sent several visitors there (and have done it myself) and everyone raves about it.

    Glad you had such a great time, and loved the photos!

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